Thursday, June 30, 2011

This ain't your momma's concealer!


For years women have worn concealer incorrectly, often leading to flaking or mismatched skin, and dare I say those white rings around their eyes. 

First off, make sure your skin if properly exfoliated and moisturized (let the moisturizer have time to absorb and dry a little). As you all already know a smooth perfect canvas is better for makeup, but this is especially true for concealer. If you are using an eye cream give it time to absorb all the way before applying concealer under the eye area.

Choosing this correct color is the most important part of this entire process. Some makeup artist will tell you, one to two shades lighter. I say NO. This may be OK for a professional makeup artist with the skills and time to blend properly, but not the the everyday woman who barely has time for chap stick. My advice is choosing a color the same color as your skin, but avoid anything too yellow, and if you must choose between a color slightly darker or light (no shade truly matches anyone) choose the slightly lighter shade.  

Next using a concealer brush, not your fingers, pat the concealer on one area by a time blending with patting motions. The patting motions will eliminate that awful brush stroke effect and help the product sink deeper into your skin and blend it better. It is also important to remember one area at a time, concealer , by design, dries fast, so working in one area allows you to properly blend.

The main location concealer is applied, as you know, is under the eyes on those dreaded dark circles, and on blemishes. Key areas most of you leave out that can make your skin look even more flawless is the t-zone. Dab a very little on areas like the nose, on the sides of the nose, between the brow, the chin, and sometimes the cheeks. Give your foundation or powder a little extra help by doing this; it will also help eliminate shine throughout the day.

I saved my opinion on under eye concealer for last. The reason is, aside from a few, I disagree with most of my fellow makeup artist. Most, not all, makeup artist love applying tons of concealer to under eye areas; I disagree. Applying tons of concealer on a younger woman is pointless (lack of dark circles), applying tons of concealer on an older woman is counter productive (the concealer sits in wrinkles and when dried, throughout the day will begin to flake and look cakey, enhancing the problem. My solution, use a little at a time blending carefully as you proceed until desired coverage is reached. For you beautiful aging women, unless you have dark blue or black eye circles, less is more. For those who need more coverage find a very reputable liquid concealer (avoid cream or stick). 

So that does it, you now have no excuse for perfect concealer!

Over and Out 
JayBrow

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